Umbria: A Soulful Escape - My Second Heart Home

If Tuscany is the glamorous older sister who studied art in Florence and wears linen year-round, then Umbria is her quieter, moodier sibling who reads poetry at golden hour and always smells like fresh rosemary and woodsmoke. She doesn’t ask for attention—she earns it. And when she lets you in? She really lets you into a soulful escape.

This August, I'm hosting a retreat in this underrated pocket of Italy, and I need to talk about it like I would if we were sitting on a sun-warmed terrace, glass of wine in hand, figs still warm from the tree. Because Umbria isn't just a place you go to. It’s a place that holds you.

Where I’ll Be Staying: Villa Vetrichina

(aka my second heart home)

So here’s the deal—I’m very picky about where I host retreats. Like... extremely. I vet everything down to the light in the bathrooms and the personality of the olive oil. And Villa Vetrichina? It didn’t just check boxes. It filled my heart.

Tucked near San Casciano dei Bagni (a name you’ll struggle to pronounce after your third Aperol spritz), this villa isn’t just a place to stay—it’s an extension of the people who run it. The family behind Villa Vetrichina are pure gold. You don’t get that “we’re in the hospitality business” vibe. You get the “we’ll feed you until you’re full of food, wine, and love” vibe.

Every corner of the villa hums with quiet beauty—sunlight pouring over aged stone walls, lavender that brushes your leg as you walk to the pool, the hush of olive trees swaying like they’ve got secrets they’ll only whisper at dusk.

Umbria: The Region That Whispers (and Occasionally Sings)

You know that moment when you arrive somewhere and everything inside you exhales? That’s what Umbria does. She’s all earthy greens and soft ochres, hilltop towns that still believe in siesta, and landscapes that make you forget what WiFi even is.

Unlike Tuscany, she hasn’t been filtered to death. There’s a rawness here—real bread, real people, real joy. The pace slows way down. On purpose. Locals chat with the butcher like it’s the most important part of their day (because, honestly, it is), and the tomatoes taste like they were grown under the sun just for you.

Hidden Things to Do (That I Honestly Wanted to Gatekeep)

Okay, so you're here. You're sipping espresso that's somehow the best you've ever had. Now what?

1. Thermal Baths in San Casciano dei Bagni

This town has ancient Roman thermal baths that are still doing their thing. It’s like soaking in history. Literally. You sit in these steamy natural pools surrounded by trees and stone and suddenly, you're part of a 2,000-year-old ritual. No big deal.

2. Città della Pieve

Underrated gem alert. This town has layers. Think narrow terracotta lanes, artists sketching in doorways, and restaurants where the pasta is hand-rolled and the truffle shavings are not shy. Plus, it’s the birthplace of Perugino, Raphael’s teacher—so yeah, it’s got some cultural flex.

3. Walk the Via Francigena

There’s a stretch of this ancient pilgrim route that cuts through the countryside like a scene out of an oil painting. You can walk a peaceful part of it just outside town, and it’ll make you feel like you’re part of something older than time. Pro tip: bring water. And snacks. Always snacks.

4. Olive Oil Tastings with Actual Farmers

Forget touristy tastings with a side of sales pitch. I’m talking about sitting in a stone kitchen while a farmer named Carlo teaches you how to taste olive oil properly (spoiler: there’s slurping involved), then sends you home with a bottle that tastes like late summer.

What Not to Miss (Seriously, Don’t)

• Sunset at the Villa – There’s this moment each evening when everything turns honey-gold and the only sound is cicadas and the occasional clink of a wine glass. It feels cinematic. And holy.
  
• Homemade pasta nights – The kind where flour is flying, everyone’s laughing, and Nonna’s passing down wisdom between sips of red wine.
  
• Quiet mornings – Before anyone’s up, sit outside. Just sit. Let the stillness wrap around you. This is what peace feels like.
  

Why This Retreat Means Everything Right Now

I didn’t choose Umbria just for the aesthetics (though let’s be real, she’s easy on the eyes). I chose her because she feels like something we all need. To slow down. To reconnect. To eat slow meals and look into each other’s eyes and breathe.

This retreat isn’t about “fixing” anything. It’s about remembering. Remembering the parts of ourselves we forget when we’re stuck in traffic or scrolling mindlessly or trying too hard to keep it all together.

And being in Umbria? With her quiet hills and her unapologetic beauty and her stubborn insistence on presence?

It helps you remember.

If you’ve been craving something more—something deeper, quieter, and soul-filling—you’re not alone. I’ve got a seat at the table for you. Literally. It’s under a fig tree. And the wine’s already breathing.

See you in Italy. 💛

PS: Wanna see the villa that started this whole love affair? Check them out here: Villa Vetrichina. Just... prepare to swoon.